Dispatches from the house.
A short notebook from above the Atlantic — long reads on dining, on the city's best hours, on where to marry, where to swim, and where to drive when the city sends you out for the weekend. Written for the guests who take their time.
No. 01
Six Michelin-Caliber Tables of Rio de Janeiro
The MICHELIN Guide stopped reviewing Brazil in 2019. These are the six Rio tables that still cook at its standard.
The Guide MICHELIN doesn't publish Rio. The city's chefs carry on anyway — Felipe Bronze, Claude Troisgros, Rafa Costa e Silva, Alberto Landgraf, the line-by-line perfectionists at the Copacabana Palace and at Fasano. Six tables, in the order I'd take you.
No. 02
A Guide to Rio de Janeiro
Rio is a city you enter through the window. Here is how to read it — by mountain, by beach, by hour.
The city of stone mountains and long beaches, read slowly. Corcovado at dawn. Sugarloaf at dusk. Santa Teresa at lunch. Ipanema at the applause. A field guide for a first week in Rio — and for a second.
No. 03
Marry in Rio
A city that knows how to keep a secret, a city that knows how to throw a party. Everything a wedding needs, in one skyline.
Parque Lage for the ceremony. The Copacabana Palace for the reception. The Jardim Botânico for the portraits. A guide to marrying in the city that invented the long goodbye — venues, seasons, paperwork, pace.
No. 04
The Best Beaches of Rio
A hundred kilometres of sand, in order of when to go and why. A field guide to the city's seventy-two moods.
From Copacabana's curve to Grumari's wildness, the city's coast mapped by hour, crowd and light. The famous four, the hidden four, and the one you reach only on foot.
No. 05
Things to Do in Rio
Fifteen ways to spend a day in the city — mountain, beach, stadium, stage, the bondinho to Santa Teresa, the walk through Lapa at midnight.
From sunrise on Pão de Açúcar to a game at the Maracanã, the samba at Rio Scenarium, the tram up to Santa Teresa, the hang-glide off Pedra Bonita. A working list — by half-day, by time of year, by mood.
No. 06
Beyond Rio
Five places within a tank of petrol from Rio — the colonial town, the beach-hopper's playground, the island bay, the emperor's summer, the mountain pines.
Paraty, Búzios, Angra, Petrópolis, Campos do Jordão. Five weekend-shaped journeys out of the city — the colonial town preserved in amber, the fishing village the French imported, the emperor's mountain, the Brazilian Alps.